A key that won’t turn or won’t come out is usually caught by the steering lock or the Park interlock. Here’s what to try safely, what not to do, and when the ignition itself needs repair.
A key that won’t turn or won’t come out of the ignition is usually caught by one of two safety locks: the steering lock or the Park interlock. Gently turn the steering wheel while you turn the key, make sure the shifter is all the way in Park with your foot on the brake, and check that the battery isn’t dead. If none of that works, stop — forcing it is how a stuck key becomes a broken one, and the cause is likely a worn key or a worn ignition.
Most stuck keys come down to five causes. The first three you can usually rule out yourself.
When the car is off, turning the steering wheel engages the steering lock — a pin that holds the steering column, and the ignition cylinder with it. If the wheels are turned against a curb, or the car is parked on a sloped ramp in a garage downtown, near USF or at TPA, the wheels push back against the steering and load that pin, and the key won’t turn. Taking the pressure off the wheel usually frees it.
Automatics have a shift interlock that won’t release the key unless the shifter is all the way in Park. If the lever is resting between Park and Reverse, the key stays put. Some cars also want the brake pedal pressed, and some manual-transmission cars have a key-release button or need a particular gear — your owner’s manual will say.
On some cars the shift interlock is electric, so a dead battery keeps it from letting go of the key. If the dash lights are dim or nothing comes on, charge or jump the battery and try again.
Keys wear out like locks do. After years on a heavy key ring, the cuts round off or the blade bends, and the key stops lining up the wafers inside the cylinder. Copying a worn key just copies the wear; a new key cut from the key code fits the way the original did.
Inside the ignition cylinder are small spring-loaded wafers, sometimes called tumblers, that line up when the right key goes in. Over time they wear, stick or break. The early sign is a key that only turns with a jiggle; eventually it won’t turn at all, or won’t come out. A new key won’t fix worn wafers — the cylinder needs repair or replacement.
Work through these gently, one at a time. Patience beats force here.
Leave the broken piece where it is. Don’t try to start the car with it inside, and don’t dig at it with tweezers or a paper clip. Skip the superglue trick too — glue that runs into the cylinder can lock the piece in place and turn a simple extraction into a replacement.
Keep the half you still have; it helps when cutting the new key. A locksmith removes the broken piece with extraction tools, checks whether the cylinder was damaged, and cuts a new key — programming the chip to the car if it has one. Our ignition repair and broken key extraction service does all of that where the car is parked, with no tow.
Often just the key. A worn key can stick in a healthy cylinder, and a fresh key cut to the code fixes it. The easy test: try your spare. If the spare turns smoothly, the old key was the problem.
If every key sticks, or the cylinder turns loosely, won’t turn at all or was damaged in a theft attempt, the ignition itself needs work. Depending on the damage, the cylinder is repaired or replaced, and keys are cut to match it.
A few makes have well-known trouble spots. Some key-start Hyundai and Kia models were built without an engine immobilizer and became a common target for thieves; if someone went after yours, the ignition is often left broken — see Hyundai and Kia keys and ignitions. On high-mileage Hondas and Acuras, a worn laser-cut key often starts to catch in the ignition (Honda and Acura keys). And the plug-in fobs that slide into the dash on many Jeep, Dodge, Chrysler and Ram vehicles generally follow the same rules as a key: Park, brake, battery (Jeep, Dodge and Ram keys).
Driving a push-to-start car? There’s no key to get stuck, but a fob the car can’t see is its own problem — see key not detected on a push-to-start car.
Usually the steering lock is engaged, the car isn’t fully in Park, or the key or the ignition wafers are worn. Turn the wheel gently while you turn the key, confirm Park and press the brake. If it still won’t turn, stop before the key snaps and call a locksmith.
Make sure the shifter is all the way in Park, press the brake, and wiggle the steering wheel slightly while you turn the key back to the lock position. Check the battery too — on some cars a dead battery keeps the key from releasing.
It’s better not to. Household sprays and oils collect dust and grit and can gum up the wafers inside the cylinder. If the ignition is sticking, have it looked at — cleaning and lubricating it the right way is part of the repair.
Yes. Zoom Locksmith extracts broken keys and repairs or replaces ignition cylinders where the car is parked, then cuts a matching key and programs the chip if the car has one.
Key stuck, broken or won’t turn? Stop forcing it and call Zoom Locksmith at (305) 528-1358. Tell us what the key is doing and the year, make and model for a free quote. We’re a mobile locksmith, insured and bonded, and we fix it where the car is parked. Lost the key altogether? See lost car key replacement. Fob trouble on a push-to-start car? See key fob replacement.
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